A very good night's sleep, zonked out at 11:30 wide awake at 5:30. I drank a litre of bottled water overnight. The room is very comfortable and airy. Nina was surprised I did not put the fan on as this stops being bitten by mosquitos. Daubed some insect repellant on before I went to sleep. No bites shown up yet. (11:35 am )
Nina's apartment is on the 3rd floor inside a secure residential section, a short way from Kashmir Gate metro station.
Sorted my hand luggage out.
Nina provided Darjeeling tea with a few blades of lemon grass in the pot, which was very nice. I have got some to take back for Matthew to make his speciality teas.
We drank the tea on the roof terrace, where there is a small shelter with chairs underneath. Loads of plants surround us.
By about 8:30 I had finished breakfast; as ever, more than you could possibly eat.
By 8:45 I was ready to go, so Nina's houseboy carried the heavy case back downstairs to load into the car for the short trip to the metro. Nina's houseboy stopped with me until I got a ticket and got through the first security check point of the day. At every metro station all passengers are searched and bags scanned. So for the first train of the day (3 more to go). The change at New Delhi metro station on to the airport line was well sign posted, and the train very similar to line 14 in Paris or Singapore metro. But this Indian train had a driver. For India the train was spotless with excellent announcements and updating displays to tell you where you are & which side to get off the train.
The airport is much like any other modern airport. Very spacious and clean.
Through security OK without the hassle of last time. You just follow any instructions given literally or make an attempt to. Just the wait now to board the plane. I have stocked up with water and food as by Indian time I will not see my bed at home until the early hours.
Flight left on time. I had a window seat row 33 sitting next to a very large asian guy who coughed, spluttered and sniffed for the 9 hrs 15 minutes flight. Apart from that small discomfort a very good flight.
The plane landed about 17:15 . Though all the check points without much delay. Got bag then a train to get me to the Heathrow Express. 15 minutes into central London tube from Paddington to Marylebone. Next train was 18:40 but the ticket I got from the clerk at Stourbridge Jnc. was not valid till 19:15. So I coughed up the excess and managed to get a seat. Lesley is picking me up from Snowhill about 8 pm. Not a bad transfer.
The Heathrow Express was a good fast train but very wobbly in comparison to the Delhi metro. What a change in cities and culture in the space of 10 hours. There is nothing quite like a smart city business-man. Their whole persona just exudes culture and confidence. In Delhi it is rare to see ladies on the train. In fact they have separate carriages.
The best things about the trip. (I am not going to list the negatives which can be just put down to experience and really do not amount to much anyway).
The best Value for Money:
A one litre bottle of water in Delhi. 20p.
The best eye opening moment in Nepal:
Seeing the rhino in Chitwan National Park coming towards me.
The most unexpected eye opening moment in India:
The sale of goats for sacrifice near the Red Fort in Old Delhi for Eid with the 2 goats in the motor rickshaw.
Most stylish place:
The privately owned Imperial Hotel in New Delhi. Every aspect of it is just awesome.
The best food:
The lamb rogan josh at he New Delhi Gymkhana Club.
The best service:
The New Delhi Gymkhana club bar AND restaurant
The best accommodation:
Andrew's apartment in Greater Noida.
The smoothest road:
The 5 km road built by the Japanese in Kathmandu going towards Bhaktapur.
The most touching moment and unexpected moment:
Andrew being incredibly sincere about wanting to share his time with his friends.
The most frenetic moment with a successful outcome:
All the car journeys to and from the F1 race track.
The best administration with no fuss:
The Yeti Travel Agent in Kathmandu. He even phoned our driver to confirm tour times.
The best Internet Connection:
Yes the free wi-fi at the Chitwan National Park Resort.
The most comfortable bed:
At the Home and Hospitality B&B in Old Delhi. Nina Kochhar told me it was an ex Oberon Hotel bed.
The best overall journey:
Kashmir Gate, Old Delhi, to Home.
2 car journeys
1 plane
6 trains
From 8:45 Delhi time to 21:15 UK time a total of 18 hours door to door.
The most efficient provision of a service:
The staff at the Chitwan National Park resort.
The best hospitality:
The Singh taxi company family, who took us all out for a meal in Noida.
The scariest but most successful moments:
Riding though the very dark gullies / back streets of Kathmandu on the back of a cycle rickshaw.
The best driver:
Sonam my driver for 4 days on the appalling Nepalese roads.
Monday, 7 November 2011
Sunday 6th November
Part 1 written as I fly south west towards Delhi,
Wow finally saw some mountains. Just before the seat belt sign went off up popped the snowy white peaks from behind the mist. It's just been un-seasonal weather, loads of other people I have spoken to have been disappointed also.
The day started with a melee at breakfast. Some Indian ladies decided to eat their breakfast outside, that was until the crows came. Once their backs were turned the birds swooped.
Met by the travel rep from Yeti Travel who gave me a feedback form to complete. Weather the only down side.
And so to the Monkey Temple and Durbar Square. I should have spent more time in the square rather than the Monkey Temple. Durbar Square is awesome. 43 Temples almost within spitting distance of each other. You need a week of reading and days of sightseeing to give it justice. And that is only one part of old Kathmandu. Off to the airport just before 12 noon. My guide did an excellent job pushing into the front of the entrance queue into the airport. The first of many. No queue at my JetLite check-in desk. And no query when my hold baggage weighed in at 23.8 kg. I managed to get my anorak in it which made it much heavier. Good job I ditched some stuff.
Then came baggage security,then immigration, then hand baggage security, each time your boarding card is stamped. Then on to the the most crowded departure hall (barn) you ever want to go in. All races and creeds travelling to all points some which I have never heard of. No direct fights to Europe though. I positioned myself as you do by one of the information screens. And relaxed. A little movement at the front prompted me to take a wander. There an official was shouting out the name of the Jetlite. I joined about 30 people to board the bus. And surprise surprise when I board the plane after yet another security check the plane is almost full. You just cannot take anything for granted here.
We are about an hour late so it will dusk when we land in Dehli.
This blog is being typed into Notes on my iPhone using a bluetooth keyboard bought for Lesley's iPad. (thanks for letting me borrow it Lesley).Then when I get wireless connection it is uploaded with a few key presses.
To be continued.
Landed at 17:33 in Delhi. Through immigration in a flash. They wanted to know the exact address I was going to in Dehli. Nina Kochhar's, Old Delhi, was not sufficient. He was happy with Delhli Gymkhana Club where I was going for dinner. My case was one of the first on the baggage carousel. So off to find the taxi driver. Unusually there are two places to meet incoming passengers, one inside the other outside the terminal, so I must have walked past the driver to start with. Another trudge to the car park then back into the Delhi traffic. I was the first to arrive at the Gymkhana Club, even though I knew Kapil was about to arrive. My bags had to be taken into the club only to be wheeled back out 2 minutes later, to be transferred to Nina's car later for the journey to her Old Delhi B & B.
The Gymkhana Club is a grand style colonial club, as I imagine they were. An extremely large ballroom with all the other facilities around the perimeter. By now all 4 of us, Nina, Vid (who had been in Calcutta with Andrew),Kapil and I had assembled together. Andrew, who was in Greater Noida and not able to join us,rang Kapil who then passed the phone to me for a chat. Nice touch that Andrew, thank you.
Into the bar about 7 pm for a drink of Kingfisher. Most Indians eat at 10 pm, as this fits in with the normal start of business hours of 10 am the next day. The formal meals always start with loads of booze, nibbles and snacks and snacks. A very risky combination if you forget that the main course is still a long way off. The unfinished snacks followed us in to the very grand restaurant. As I am writing this the next day, I think I had soup for starters, but the main course of dahl and rogan josh was amazing. Nina corrected me when I called the sauce, sauce, it's curry she said.
Nina is a very intelligent person, which on reflection all Anne and Andrew's friends are. She was very keen to hear about Vid's trip, and my family. She told us that it is the centenary of Queen Victoria's coronation in India. She also told us of the time she had been visiting Kathmandu and broke her leg during a scuffle to keep her handbag from being stolen. She said the treatment in the hospital there was remarkable, which she put down to the practice they have had sorting out the injured mountaineers. You do not want to stop in the hospital too long as you were, she said, guaranteed to get an infection. So her son travelled up from India to take her home. Kapil coerced me into my non-fill-chiltered whisky story and Nina understood the nuances in the tale.
So after an excellent meal, a transfer of bags to Nina's car and through at first clear roads. As we approached the Red Fort in Old Delhi we had to go through the goat market. As the next day Monday is the festival of Eid, where families eat a sacrificed goat with their families and neighbours, some last minute shoppers were there buying their goats. I saw one motor ricksaw with two people and two live goats in.
The Delhi traffic I have decided is perfect following an evening out. One driver's collision avoidance sense takes account of any straying of another driver' s attention. There is also not the violent acceleration and braking which we get in the UK traffic, just a gentle movement at junctions weaving in and out with an odd toot of the horn to let others know you are there.
Nina's apartment is on the top floor,
so she wakes up her house boy to carry my big case up the 30 or 40 steps. And so to bed. Knackered.
Wow finally saw some mountains. Just before the seat belt sign went off up popped the snowy white peaks from behind the mist. It's just been un-seasonal weather, loads of other people I have spoken to have been disappointed also.
The day started with a melee at breakfast. Some Indian ladies decided to eat their breakfast outside, that was until the crows came. Once their backs were turned the birds swooped.
Met by the travel rep from Yeti Travel who gave me a feedback form to complete. Weather the only down side.
And so to the Monkey Temple and Durbar Square. I should have spent more time in the square rather than the Monkey Temple. Durbar Square is awesome. 43 Temples almost within spitting distance of each other. You need a week of reading and days of sightseeing to give it justice. And that is only one part of old Kathmandu. Off to the airport just before 12 noon. My guide did an excellent job pushing into the front of the entrance queue into the airport. The first of many. No queue at my JetLite check-in desk. And no query when my hold baggage weighed in at 23.8 kg. I managed to get my anorak in it which made it much heavier. Good job I ditched some stuff.
Then came baggage security,then immigration, then hand baggage security, each time your boarding card is stamped. Then on to the the most crowded departure hall (barn) you ever want to go in. All races and creeds travelling to all points some which I have never heard of. No direct fights to Europe though. I positioned myself as you do by one of the information screens. And relaxed. A little movement at the front prompted me to take a wander. There an official was shouting out the name of the Jetlite. I joined about 30 people to board the bus. And surprise surprise when I board the plane after yet another security check the plane is almost full. You just cannot take anything for granted here.
We are about an hour late so it will dusk when we land in Dehli.
This blog is being typed into Notes on my iPhone using a bluetooth keyboard bought for Lesley's iPad. (thanks for letting me borrow it Lesley).Then when I get wireless connection it is uploaded with a few key presses.
To be continued.
Landed at 17:33 in Delhi. Through immigration in a flash. They wanted to know the exact address I was going to in Dehli. Nina Kochhar's, Old Delhi, was not sufficient. He was happy with Delhli Gymkhana Club where I was going for dinner. My case was one of the first on the baggage carousel. So off to find the taxi driver. Unusually there are two places to meet incoming passengers, one inside the other outside the terminal, so I must have walked past the driver to start with. Another trudge to the car park then back into the Delhi traffic. I was the first to arrive at the Gymkhana Club, even though I knew Kapil was about to arrive. My bags had to be taken into the club only to be wheeled back out 2 minutes later, to be transferred to Nina's car later for the journey to her Old Delhi B & B.
The Gymkhana Club is a grand style colonial club, as I imagine they were. An extremely large ballroom with all the other facilities around the perimeter. By now all 4 of us, Nina, Vid (who had been in Calcutta with Andrew),Kapil and I had assembled together. Andrew, who was in Greater Noida and not able to join us,rang Kapil who then passed the phone to me for a chat. Nice touch that Andrew, thank you.
Into the bar about 7 pm for a drink of Kingfisher. Most Indians eat at 10 pm, as this fits in with the normal start of business hours of 10 am the next day. The formal meals always start with loads of booze, nibbles and snacks and snacks. A very risky combination if you forget that the main course is still a long way off. The unfinished snacks followed us in to the very grand restaurant. As I am writing this the next day, I think I had soup for starters, but the main course of dahl and rogan josh was amazing. Nina corrected me when I called the sauce, sauce, it's curry she said.
Nina is a very intelligent person, which on reflection all Anne and Andrew's friends are. She was very keen to hear about Vid's trip, and my family. She told us that it is the centenary of Queen Victoria's coronation in India. She also told us of the time she had been visiting Kathmandu and broke her leg during a scuffle to keep her handbag from being stolen. She said the treatment in the hospital there was remarkable, which she put down to the practice they have had sorting out the injured mountaineers. You do not want to stop in the hospital too long as you were, she said, guaranteed to get an infection. So her son travelled up from India to take her home. Kapil coerced me into my non-fill-chiltered whisky story and Nina understood the nuances in the tale.
So after an excellent meal, a transfer of bags to Nina's car and through at first clear roads. As we approached the Red Fort in Old Delhi we had to go through the goat market. As the next day Monday is the festival of Eid, where families eat a sacrificed goat with their families and neighbours, some last minute shoppers were there buying their goats. I saw one motor ricksaw with two people and two live goats in.
The Delhi traffic I have decided is perfect following an evening out. One driver's collision avoidance sense takes account of any straying of another driver' s attention. There is also not the violent acceleration and braking which we get in the UK traffic, just a gentle movement at junctions weaving in and out with an odd toot of the horn to let others know you are there.
Nina's apartment is on the top floor,
so she wakes up her house boy to carry my big case up the 30 or 40 steps. And so to bed. Knackered.
Saturday, 5 November 2011
Saturday 5th November
A long drive today, yes even for me as a passenge, being rocked back and forth for 5 hours from 7:30 along the 168 km road back to Kathmandu. The hills got steeper the closer we got to Kathmandu. I have had enough traffic fumes to last me to the end of the year. Loads of broken down trucks along the road, one with brake failure that had just rolled back into the ditch and was half blocking the road. One lorry on its side having left the road but not quite making it into the river. The site of two recent land slips, fortunately on the off side away from the river, so they would have blocked the road in recent days. Into the hotel room by about 1 pm. Started to sort out all the junk and reduce the hold luggage to below 20 kg.
Off on another tour with a new guide Kacer to Bhatapur. What a remarkable place it is. It reminds me of a land Venice. So much history that I did not give it 1% justice in the 90 minutes I was there. Not helped by stair rodding rain, and where had I left my water proof jacket, yes at the hotel. Even the guide had to buy an umbrella. All the locals say this is most unseasonal weather, but they would say that wouldn't they. I would think the centre of Bhatapur is the most densely populated place for antiquities of anywhere I have been. What's more, even though the 21st century amenities are there, the place still looks medieval . Which it is. I'll get the facts wrong if & try & repeat the information the guide gave me. If you do go there just do more reading up than I did.
Said good bye to my driver Sonam, who has been my guide through the amazing Nepalese countryside. Most people live in villages rather than towns, but they all seem to have pre-paid mobile phones. The late rain will play havoc with the rice crops which were drying in the fields.
Jumped into a hot bath of green water to remove the chill of being soaked to the skin.
Buffet tea in the restaurant, good value until the 25% taxes are added on.
Set up the taxi collection from Delhi airport with Deshbir so I can meet Nina Kochhar at the Delhi Gymkhana Club (Safdarjang Road, near Teen Murti House), where we will have dinner before going to her B & B. Vid and Kapil may join us also.
Now to sort out the junk in my room and pack. I gave Sonam a load of stuff including the mosquito net. This should allow me to be close to the 20 kg baggage limit.
Goodnight.
Off on another tour with a new guide Kacer to Bhatapur. What a remarkable place it is. It reminds me of a land Venice. So much history that I did not give it 1% justice in the 90 minutes I was there. Not helped by stair rodding rain, and where had I left my water proof jacket, yes at the hotel. Even the guide had to buy an umbrella. All the locals say this is most unseasonal weather, but they would say that wouldn't they. I would think the centre of Bhatapur is the most densely populated place for antiquities of anywhere I have been. What's more, even though the 21st century amenities are there, the place still looks medieval . Which it is. I'll get the facts wrong if & try & repeat the information the guide gave me. If you do go there just do more reading up than I did.
Said good bye to my driver Sonam, who has been my guide through the amazing Nepalese countryside. Most people live in villages rather than towns, but they all seem to have pre-paid mobile phones. The late rain will play havoc with the rice crops which were drying in the fields.
Jumped into a hot bath of green water to remove the chill of being soaked to the skin.
Buffet tea in the restaurant, good value until the 25% taxes are added on.
Set up the taxi collection from Delhi airport with Deshbir so I can meet Nina Kochhar at the Delhi Gymkhana Club (Safdarjang Road, near Teen Murti House), where we will have dinner before going to her B & B. Vid and Kapil may join us also.
Now to sort out the junk in my room and pack. I gave Sonam a load of stuff including the mosquito net. This should allow me to be close to the 20 kg baggage limit.
Goodnight.
Friday, 4 November 2011
Friday 4th November
A warm night last night. I feel rested so I must have slept. A tap at my door at 6 am, cup of tea at 6:20 then elephant safari into the forest at 6:30. Three of us on the beast in a chair with the "driver" sitting with his legs either side of the elephants ears. Off we go into the very damp and misty day. Down a very steep bank of at least 45 degrees. A slow rocking quite relaxing journey. Quite quickly and within 300 metres of the lodge we see a rhino and what do we do but walk towards it to get some good photos. We trudge round the 18 inch wide elephant tracks, all the time it reaches out with its trunk and eats and eats and eats. Grass, shrubs and trees just get gobbled up at the rate of 150 kg a day we are told later. At one point our path is blocked by a small tree. At the driver's command our path is made clear, the elephant just breaks down the 5metre high tree and off we go again. We spot another rhino this one much smaller 6 to 7 years old. Yes and we walk towards it to about 30 metres. The elephant is turned round so we can each get good photos. There are lots of birds and very weird sounds. The only other animals we see on the 135 minute trek are a pair of deer. Then the bare footed driver just gets off the elephant to go to the loo 50 yards behind us. He shows us tiger tracks, they have seen the tigers 3 times here in the last year during the elephant safaris. No such sighting today I am pleased to say. Then its our time to drive the elephant. He moves to the back & I sit astride its head just behind its ears. The driver gets off and gives verbal commands from behind. The skin is so warm to the touch and very bristly with short black hairs. You feel in a very safe and commanding position. Swapping drivers is however a little tricky.
And so to breakfast and on to an elephant teach-in at 10 am. We walk to where the same elephant is tethered by a rope hoop to its back right leg. We follow it to a circle of wooden benches 400 metres away down a steep hill through a pond in a stream up the other side. The guide tells us a few facts, then each of the 5 of us get the chance to hand feed a large capsule of elephant grass about 8 inches long and as thick as my ankle. We observe, and then are able to climb on to its head by putting our right foot about waist high onto its trunk and yanking yourself up using its ears to hold on to. Dead easy. Then they needed a volunteer to go up on its head again for the ride back to its stables, yes it was me again. I did hang on for dear life down the steep bank. As we went through the water 100's of tiny frogs jumped out of the way. A little tricky getting off but the command was given for it too kneel, then I could just slid down to the ground. Much more comfortable than riding in the chair.
And so to the afternoon session walking in the forest looking for rhino on foot with the guide, who informed us that his large bamboo stick shoved in the rhino's sensitive mouth would deter it from hurting us. The rest of it is built like a horned tank. The risk assessment was if one of them charged at us run in a zigzag line to the nearest big tree. As fast as you can (bearing in mind its top speed is 45 kph and it weights 3 tons). Yes we did see a rhino 50 yards away. It would prefer to come towards us away from the two elephants with some Germans on. There was a large pond between us & the rhino. The animal paused momentarily during its jogging through the water towards us. Time for a quick photo and I was off. Seeing one rhino in the wild was enough for me but the guide continued to look. Only a small deer was seen, plus leeches that somehow stuck to the stomach of the girl in our group of three. Fortunately I did not pick any up. The girl was a little perturbed when bleeding started after the small 15 mm x 2 mm leech was removed.
On return to the lodge I called Lesley to say she could now reduce my life insurance. Dark by about 6, still warm. A shower was called for and hey-presto the water was warm. The jungle/elephant clothes have gone into quarantine to be sorted out at home.
Our guide gave a slide show on the wild life of the national park. Very interesting. My stay at the Machan Paradise, Chitwan National Park, has been very enjoyable. All the staff are most friendly and very very keen to help you. A good last night chatting to other guests.
And so to breakfast and on to an elephant teach-in at 10 am. We walk to where the same elephant is tethered by a rope hoop to its back right leg. We follow it to a circle of wooden benches 400 metres away down a steep hill through a pond in a stream up the other side. The guide tells us a few facts, then each of the 5 of us get the chance to hand feed a large capsule of elephant grass about 8 inches long and as thick as my ankle. We observe, and then are able to climb on to its head by putting our right foot about waist high onto its trunk and yanking yourself up using its ears to hold on to. Dead easy. Then they needed a volunteer to go up on its head again for the ride back to its stables, yes it was me again. I did hang on for dear life down the steep bank. As we went through the water 100's of tiny frogs jumped out of the way. A little tricky getting off but the command was given for it too kneel, then I could just slid down to the ground. Much more comfortable than riding in the chair.
And so to the afternoon session walking in the forest looking for rhino on foot with the guide, who informed us that his large bamboo stick shoved in the rhino's sensitive mouth would deter it from hurting us. The rest of it is built like a horned tank. The risk assessment was if one of them charged at us run in a zigzag line to the nearest big tree. As fast as you can (bearing in mind its top speed is 45 kph and it weights 3 tons). Yes we did see a rhino 50 yards away. It would prefer to come towards us away from the two elephants with some Germans on. There was a large pond between us & the rhino. The animal paused momentarily during its jogging through the water towards us. Time for a quick photo and I was off. Seeing one rhino in the wild was enough for me but the guide continued to look. Only a small deer was seen, plus leeches that somehow stuck to the stomach of the girl in our group of three. Fortunately I did not pick any up. The girl was a little perturbed when bleeding started after the small 15 mm x 2 mm leech was removed.
On return to the lodge I called Lesley to say she could now reduce my life insurance. Dark by about 6, still warm. A shower was called for and hey-presto the water was warm. The jungle/elephant clothes have gone into quarantine to be sorted out at home.
Our guide gave a slide show on the wild life of the national park. Very interesting. My stay at the Machan Paradise, Chitwan National Park, has been very enjoyable. All the staff are most friendly and very very keen to help you. A good last night chatting to other guests.
Thursday, 3 November 2011
Thursday 3 rd November
Misty again in Pokhara. Even a couple from Kathmandu I met last night were convinced that it would be fine this morning. An Ozzie I met later in the day who had been in Pokhara two days before me said the mountains were crystal clear,
Left in heavy rain for the 150 km drive to Chitwan national park. The driver Sonam knew a route to miss part of the first 5 km of busy road. Retraced the road back to Kathmandu then turned south. Very bumpy roads in places. One accident black spot we passed was where a government minister had been killed when his car went off the road into the river, the driver survived but was jailed for 4 years, released, then murdered by the Maoists. Loads of other spots have had fatal accidents. The latest only last week when two young guys on a motor bike were killed.
The last 20 km or so was along wide rock roads. The four wheel drive Ford "Everest" car copes very well. We stopped a few times for me to take some pictures. There are just too many sights to record in film. A group of 30 or so women were cutting the rice down in a field at the side of the road. The thing I shall always remember is the sound of the scythes slicking through the rice stems, then we stopped to see a trio of guys beating the corn stems by hand on to a wooden table. They were ankle deep in corn surrounded by a waist high stack of hay.
Arrived at the Machan Lodge about 12:45. A brief but efficent description of events, all directed from a large chalk board outside the refectory . They have me listed as Mr Richard (please note).
The weather here is warm to hot and dry. Loads of insects about the place so I sprayed up. Not for the first time I think. The staff are most attentive almost hovering to see if you want more food or another drink.
A group of 6 of us left at 14:30 for Land Rover Safari and river trip. Neither of them for the faint hearted. I never knew how very good Land Rovers are over rough ground. You can keep 20 mph up unless it is very rocky. The 6 of us found the most comfortable way to travel is standing up holding on to the transverse bar where the canvas behind the cab would normally be.
Our guide is very keen for me to get good photos and gives me loads of tips. He also allows us to photograph alligators through an open door to get a better shot of the metre long reptiles.. (there was a barrier a waist height).
And so to the river canoe trip. A slowish flowing river with the occasional rapid. We started just below where we had seen a crocodile 2 hours before. Eight of us in the "canoe" made from planks of wood nailed/stapled together. Water lapping 4 or 5 inches below the gunwale. At least the nails holding the seat backs up looked new. As dusk was creeping in the photos of the birds we saw were very poor. The guide advised me to change the white balance on my camera. Never done that before. We all made it back to shore just with wet shoes from the leaking boat. Back to the lodge then met at 6:45 for a demonstration of Napalese dancing. This is very similar to the English Morris dancing but much more musical with drum and rattles. We all had a go with them as an encore.
The accommodation is basic but clean. The staff say there are no mozzies, however I have put my net up, just to say I have used it. It is due to go down to 14 degrees C tonight so no AC thank goodness. The wi-fi is free here and works well with Skype on my iphone. Due to be woken at 6 am for the elephant safari. I must remember to tuck my long trousers into my socks to save the leeches crawling up my leg as happened to one lady this morning.
And so to bed.
Left in heavy rain for the 150 km drive to Chitwan national park. The driver Sonam knew a route to miss part of the first 5 km of busy road. Retraced the road back to Kathmandu then turned south. Very bumpy roads in places. One accident black spot we passed was where a government minister had been killed when his car went off the road into the river, the driver survived but was jailed for 4 years, released, then murdered by the Maoists. Loads of other spots have had fatal accidents. The latest only last week when two young guys on a motor bike were killed.
The last 20 km or so was along wide rock roads. The four wheel drive Ford "Everest" car copes very well. We stopped a few times for me to take some pictures. There are just too many sights to record in film. A group of 30 or so women were cutting the rice down in a field at the side of the road. The thing I shall always remember is the sound of the scythes slicking through the rice stems, then we stopped to see a trio of guys beating the corn stems by hand on to a wooden table. They were ankle deep in corn surrounded by a waist high stack of hay.
Arrived at the Machan Lodge about 12:45. A brief but efficent description of events, all directed from a large chalk board outside the refectory . They have me listed as Mr Richard (please note).
The weather here is warm to hot and dry. Loads of insects about the place so I sprayed up. Not for the first time I think. The staff are most attentive almost hovering to see if you want more food or another drink.
A group of 6 of us left at 14:30 for Land Rover Safari and river trip. Neither of them for the faint hearted. I never knew how very good Land Rovers are over rough ground. You can keep 20 mph up unless it is very rocky. The 6 of us found the most comfortable way to travel is standing up holding on to the transverse bar where the canvas behind the cab would normally be.
Our guide is very keen for me to get good photos and gives me loads of tips. He also allows us to photograph alligators through an open door to get a better shot of the metre long reptiles.. (there was a barrier a waist height).
And so to the river canoe trip. A slowish flowing river with the occasional rapid. We started just below where we had seen a crocodile 2 hours before. Eight of us in the "canoe" made from planks of wood nailed/stapled together. Water lapping 4 or 5 inches below the gunwale. At least the nails holding the seat backs up looked new. As dusk was creeping in the photos of the birds we saw were very poor. The guide advised me to change the white balance on my camera. Never done that before. We all made it back to shore just with wet shoes from the leaking boat. Back to the lodge then met at 6:45 for a demonstration of Napalese dancing. This is very similar to the English Morris dancing but much more musical with drum and rattles. We all had a go with them as an encore.
The accommodation is basic but clean. The staff say there are no mozzies, however I have put my net up, just to say I have used it. It is due to go down to 14 degrees C tonight so no AC thank goodness. The wi-fi is free here and works well with Skype on my iphone. Due to be woken at 6 am for the elephant safari. I must remember to tuck my long trousers into my socks to save the leeches crawling up my leg as happened to one lady this morning.
And so to bed.
Wednesday, 2 November 2011
Wednesday 2nd Nov
My most ethnic day so far. Taken by taxi and guide for 35 minutes to see the "sunrise" at 6:15 over the Annapurna Range. Very misty but still a great experience. There were hundreds of people up there at Sarangkot. We were early enough to get a good seat at the front of a balcony overlooking the local country-side. There has been misty weather for 6 days now, but you still get a feeling of what the view would be like.
Back to the hotel quick breakfast then off on the city tour at 9 pm, to the Tibetan refugee camp where I met a lady of 55 who had been a refugee for 52 years. Kicked out by the Chinese. She still has a brother alive in China. Then to the Hindu Temple, Devil's Falls, Hydro Electric Gardens, a very large steel rope bridge beside the British Gurkha Army Camp. Only the temple was non touristy. Then off on the large lake with an island temple on it, where if it is clear weather you can see the mountains. It was noticeable that only the Japanese were offered life jackets. The rest of us, including my guide Sebar who could not swim, were just pushed off from the side for the half a mile paddle by a lady in the back. Good photos though. A little shopping then back to the hotel for 12:25.
My next trip started at 3 pm so a little shut eye was called for. Waited till 14:45 to ring Lesley where is was 9 am. She informed me that Matthew had made a short-cut on the ipad to enable Lesley to proof read & correct this blog. Good idea that.
Set off about 15:10 for the trip for the early evening trek on to a local trekking trail. At the very least 40 minutes drive up rough but mostly sealed roads to the village where Sebar lives. The village school children were just walking home. No school run here. Some of them are up to an hour away from home. When my dad lived in yorkshire he had to walk miles to school. I decided not to witness the killing and plucking of the chickens that were laid semi lifeless on the pavement outside the chicken shop. Then another 20 minute walk past loads of children to whom I was a great novelty. So into Sebar's farm and house, past the two water buffalo, cow, dog, to find a very comfortable cat sitting on the very chair I was offered to sit on. I chose the one next to it. Sebar has a lovely 26 month old daughter, plus his wife who is due to give birth any week now. Unless there are difficulties she will have the baby at home. They live In the two rooms plus kitchen with Sebar's parents. In the summer the veranda and outside stove area are used as living accommodation. .
Then another 30 minutes walk up to the trekking trail. The trekkers carry their whole kit and just camp on flat ground by the side of villages. You are never very far away from anyone here. Dusk was upon us so into the taxi that had followed us via the road. We dropped Sebar off in what seemed like nowhere, and went quickly down the dark road into Pokhara, very polluted with evening traffic and fires the locals use for cooking. On the way back to the hotel I stopped off at the lake-side shops which I had seen earlier in the day. The taxi driver waited while I did some shopping then back to base by a very dark 6:40. Shower, booze, food, then bed & ready to leave at 8:30 tomorrow to go to the Chitwan National Park..
Back to the hotel quick breakfast then off on the city tour at 9 pm, to the Tibetan refugee camp where I met a lady of 55 who had been a refugee for 52 years. Kicked out by the Chinese. She still has a brother alive in China. Then to the Hindu Temple, Devil's Falls, Hydro Electric Gardens, a very large steel rope bridge beside the British Gurkha Army Camp. Only the temple was non touristy. Then off on the large lake with an island temple on it, where if it is clear weather you can see the mountains. It was noticeable that only the Japanese were offered life jackets. The rest of us, including my guide Sebar who could not swim, were just pushed off from the side for the half a mile paddle by a lady in the back. Good photos though. A little shopping then back to the hotel for 12:25.
My next trip started at 3 pm so a little shut eye was called for. Waited till 14:45 to ring Lesley where is was 9 am. She informed me that Matthew had made a short-cut on the ipad to enable Lesley to proof read & correct this blog. Good idea that.
Set off about 15:10 for the trip for the early evening trek on to a local trekking trail. At the very least 40 minutes drive up rough but mostly sealed roads to the village where Sebar lives. The village school children were just walking home. No school run here. Some of them are up to an hour away from home. When my dad lived in yorkshire he had to walk miles to school. I decided not to witness the killing and plucking of the chickens that were laid semi lifeless on the pavement outside the chicken shop. Then another 20 minute walk past loads of children to whom I was a great novelty. So into Sebar's farm and house, past the two water buffalo, cow, dog, to find a very comfortable cat sitting on the very chair I was offered to sit on. I chose the one next to it. Sebar has a lovely 26 month old daughter, plus his wife who is due to give birth any week now. Unless there are difficulties she will have the baby at home. They live In the two rooms plus kitchen with Sebar's parents. In the summer the veranda and outside stove area are used as living accommodation. .
Then another 30 minutes walk up to the trekking trail. The trekkers carry their whole kit and just camp on flat ground by the side of villages. You are never very far away from anyone here. Dusk was upon us so into the taxi that had followed us via the road. We dropped Sebar off in what seemed like nowhere, and went quickly down the dark road into Pokhara, very polluted with evening traffic and fires the locals use for cooking. On the way back to the hotel I stopped off at the lake-side shops which I had seen earlier in the day. The taxi driver waited while I did some shopping then back to base by a very dark 6:40. Shower, booze, food, then bed & ready to leave at 8:30 tomorrow to go to the Chitwan National Park..
Tuesday, 1 November 2011
Tuesday 1st November
Up about 6 updated the blog until about 7 and down to breakfast. Just a little yoghurt, cereal and toast. Back to the room to finish packing, then dropped the large red case off at the concierge ready to to pick up on Saturday. The breakfast bar was very good - a selection of everything including bacon and you could order an omelette if you wanted. The staff are all very friendly being efficient without the Indian officious. Met the driver Sonam at 9 am, the local rep was there to give me my hotel vouchers for the next 4 nights.
Then we started the 199 km journey to Pokhara. You are very quickly into pretty countryside, rolling green sided hills. After 30 minutes we had to stop for half an hour as a land slip had closed the road. If people get frustrated I did not see any sign. They just get on with it. Sonam lives in a village that is only just getting electricity and it takes him two days to get home from Kathmandu. There are no roads to his village. One of his friends who is also a Sherpa has climbed Everest 5 times but died 10 years ago because he fell down a hole in the village after a drinking session and he was not found till the next day as there was no lighting.
Half the road to Pokhara was built by Indian engineers the other
part by Chinese. The first part of the Chinese road was good but the last part into Pokhara was dreadful. We surprisingly only passed one accident, an over-turned lorry. The horn and use of the indicators are very confusing. When the driver in front knows you are behind, he indicates right to say you can overtake. The horn is just a signal to say "i am here".
The driving has to be seen to be believed. No one with a weak nerve or constitution would survive. The buses are rammed full with eyes peering out. Every other bus has passengers on top. The rice crop is just being harvested (by hand). The country is a succession of villages. Sonam says one's friends are limited to no more than 10 as the other villages would be too far to walk to. They have to live on fresh food as that is all there is. A very fertile landscape with lots of different greens of the rice crop. Women cut the rice and beat the grains of rice off on to a large mat in the field. Stacks of rice hay are used to save for the monsoon season to boil the kettle. The rivers we do pass are below their peak as the monsoon finished in August and was particularly wet this year. Hence the good rice crop. The driver is in his late 50's and speaks very good English. I have to stop myself talking about more than one topic at a time as he does not follow. Spots of rain as we near Pokhara then very heavy rain and a litte thunder. The guide says with great confidence that the dawn tour I have booked will be fine because that is what is forcast. We shall see at 5:15 tomorrow. The hotel is ok, the room not quite as good as last night. Had the buffet, very good but the cabbage tastes of the water it was cooked in. All the staff here were born with a smile on their faces and speak very good English, One word namaste is a universal greeting at any time of the day (for we tourists anyway). You also put your hands together and bow your head slightly. A beautiful way to pause for a moment as you greet people. Watch out when I next greet you.
Then we started the 199 km journey to Pokhara. You are very quickly into pretty countryside, rolling green sided hills. After 30 minutes we had to stop for half an hour as a land slip had closed the road. If people get frustrated I did not see any sign. They just get on with it. Sonam lives in a village that is only just getting electricity and it takes him two days to get home from Kathmandu. There are no roads to his village. One of his friends who is also a Sherpa has climbed Everest 5 times but died 10 years ago because he fell down a hole in the village after a drinking session and he was not found till the next day as there was no lighting.
Half the road to Pokhara was built by Indian engineers the other
part by Chinese. The first part of the Chinese road was good but the last part into Pokhara was dreadful. We surprisingly only passed one accident, an over-turned lorry. The horn and use of the indicators are very confusing. When the driver in front knows you are behind, he indicates right to say you can overtake. The horn is just a signal to say "i am here".
The driving has to be seen to be believed. No one with a weak nerve or constitution would survive. The buses are rammed full with eyes peering out. Every other bus has passengers on top. The rice crop is just being harvested (by hand). The country is a succession of villages. Sonam says one's friends are limited to no more than 10 as the other villages would be too far to walk to. They have to live on fresh food as that is all there is. A very fertile landscape with lots of different greens of the rice crop. Women cut the rice and beat the grains of rice off on to a large mat in the field. Stacks of rice hay are used to save for the monsoon season to boil the kettle. The rivers we do pass are below their peak as the monsoon finished in August and was particularly wet this year. Hence the good rice crop. The driver is in his late 50's and speaks very good English. I have to stop myself talking about more than one topic at a time as he does not follow. Spots of rain as we near Pokhara then very heavy rain and a litte thunder. The guide says with great confidence that the dawn tour I have booked will be fine because that is what is forcast. We shall see at 5:15 tomorrow. The hotel is ok, the room not quite as good as last night. Had the buffet, very good but the cabbage tastes of the water it was cooked in. All the staff here were born with a smile on their faces and speak very good English, One word namaste is a universal greeting at any time of the day (for we tourists anyway). You also put your hands together and bow your head slightly. A beautiful way to pause for a moment as you greet people. Watch out when I next greet you.
Monday, 31 October 2011
Monday 31st
Monday 31st October
Away by 8:40. The traffic on the way was jammed solid so our driver took to the Delhi back steets, went past the Commonwealth Games Arena. Arrived just after 10 am. Flight ok. 90 minutes to Kathmandu and then 90 minutes to get a visa 25 US Dollars. Compared to Delhi the security was very minimal. Now 5 hours 45 minutes in front of GMT. They changed from BST yesterday.
Met by the local rep of Trailfinders, who took me through the week's tour while the taxi drove us to Hotel Himalaya. Minimal admin and so to the room. 4 star quality hotel very good. Desperate for some grub so exploded my luggage over my room, went to a local ATM, had a shower, got some maps, then off in a taxi to a restaurant "Rumdoodles" (see web site for more details). The only problem was the taxi driver did not know where it was so we got advice from reception. It was 6 pm by now, dark and very busy traffic. Of course the driver charged me 100 rupees more then my guide said, but less than £4 for a 30 minutes ride is good. Loads of shops round Rumdoodles it would take me a day to list all the items on offer. Everyone is very friendly. During negotiations for purchases they are keen to tap you on the hand. However they do not get ratty when you walk away. The meal in Rumdoodles was good and served extremely quickly. About 50 Brits walked in as 1 left. The whole interior is plastered with large foot cutouts with names of tours that have gone trekking up to Everest - logos and the names are printed on each foot before it is nailed to the ceiling. Much to the taxi driver's annoyance I did not want to be tied down by his waiting for me. So how to get back to the hotel in a foreign country where there appeared to be not many taxis. I had a rough idea of which way the hotel was but it was too far to walk. I did buy a map however which turned out to be critical when the cycle rickshaw driver took me to a same named hotel 300 yards away. He first asked for 10 US dollars. We settled on 300 rupees a good earner for him. But I knew how far it was. He did struggle down some very dark cobbled streets. As the hotel was up an incline when I realised where we were, I paid him 400 rupees, he tried to look disappointed. Bought some more water and very glad to be back at the hotel by about 8:30. Now to sort out the stuff I do not need, to be put into a case to be left at the hotel till Saturday. Bought wi-fi, expensive at 870 rupees, but this enabled me to call Lesley for next to nothing on Skype and upload this blog. Had a soak in the lime green dettol smelling water and so to bed by midnight. To be picked up at 9 am in a 4 x4.
Away by 8:40. The traffic on the way was jammed solid so our driver took to the Delhi back steets, went past the Commonwealth Games Arena. Arrived just after 10 am. Flight ok. 90 minutes to Kathmandu and then 90 minutes to get a visa 25 US Dollars. Compared to Delhi the security was very minimal. Now 5 hours 45 minutes in front of GMT. They changed from BST yesterday.
Met by the local rep of Trailfinders, who took me through the week's tour while the taxi drove us to Hotel Himalaya. Minimal admin and so to the room. 4 star quality hotel very good. Desperate for some grub so exploded my luggage over my room, went to a local ATM, had a shower, got some maps, then off in a taxi to a restaurant "Rumdoodles" (see web site for more details). The only problem was the taxi driver did not know where it was so we got advice from reception. It was 6 pm by now, dark and very busy traffic. Of course the driver charged me 100 rupees more then my guide said, but less than £4 for a 30 minutes ride is good. Loads of shops round Rumdoodles it would take me a day to list all the items on offer. Everyone is very friendly. During negotiations for purchases they are keen to tap you on the hand. However they do not get ratty when you walk away. The meal in Rumdoodles was good and served extremely quickly. About 50 Brits walked in as 1 left. The whole interior is plastered with large foot cutouts with names of tours that have gone trekking up to Everest - logos and the names are printed on each foot before it is nailed to the ceiling. Much to the taxi driver's annoyance I did not want to be tied down by his waiting for me. So how to get back to the hotel in a foreign country where there appeared to be not many taxis. I had a rough idea of which way the hotel was but it was too far to walk. I did buy a map however which turned out to be critical when the cycle rickshaw driver took me to a same named hotel 300 yards away. He first asked for 10 US dollars. We settled on 300 rupees a good earner for him. But I knew how far it was. He did struggle down some very dark cobbled streets. As the hotel was up an incline when I realised where we were, I paid him 400 rupees, he tried to look disappointed. Bought some more water and very glad to be back at the hotel by about 8:30. Now to sort out the stuff I do not need, to be put into a case to be left at the hotel till Saturday. Bought wi-fi, expensive at 870 rupees, but this enabled me to call Lesley for next to nothing on Skype and upload this blog. Had a soak in the lime green dettol smelling water and so to bed by midnight. To be picked up at 9 am in a 4 x4.
Sunday 30th Race Day
As we only have one car pass to the circuit three trips are required to get us into the track. This became problematic later when the traffic after the race was jammed solid. I was in the first car with 8 in ( 10 was the record set on Friday). This in a normal people carrier. Just getting in tune with the locals - they regularly have driver, wife plus 2 kids on a motor bike.
Into the track ok. Alan plus others tried to use the shuttle bus to get to the F1 Village, they quickly gave up as even by Indian standards the bus was full. Bob and I stopped close by our seats catching a glimpse of the drivers as they went on a parade lap. Very few of them seemed to connect with the crowd by giving us a wave. Alonso looked most unhappy, however Schumaker gave everyone a happy wave.
And so to the race, without knowing the team colours and red/yellow tag system it would have been impossible to track each driver. Vetel in the lead all the time , Button doing his best but not getting closer than 3 seconds. He is a very smooth driver, whereas Hamilton is very aggressive. Massive exit at the end by all the crowd, the first car was back to KR in just over an hour. I tidied and packed my cases ready for the trip to Nepal tomorrow. By about 8 everyone was back. Andrew plus others went down to the health spa. No mention of food even though most of us had not eaten since our hearty breakfast. I went down and joined Andrew, Alan, John and Mel in the jacussi for a beer of course. Some time later Sunhil arranged for a few snacks from a local restaurant and we had that plus left overs from the party. More booze more talk and so to bed. Far too late for our 7 am alarm call to be away to the airport by 8:30.
Into the track ok. Alan plus others tried to use the shuttle bus to get to the F1 Village, they quickly gave up as even by Indian standards the bus was full. Bob and I stopped close by our seats catching a glimpse of the drivers as they went on a parade lap. Very few of them seemed to connect with the crowd by giving us a wave. Alonso looked most unhappy, however Schumaker gave everyone a happy wave.
And so to the race, without knowing the team colours and red/yellow tag system it would have been impossible to track each driver. Vetel in the lead all the time , Button doing his best but not getting closer than 3 seconds. He is a very smooth driver, whereas Hamilton is very aggressive. Massive exit at the end by all the crowd, the first car was back to KR in just over an hour. I tidied and packed my cases ready for the trip to Nepal tomorrow. By about 8 everyone was back. Andrew plus others went down to the health spa. No mention of food even though most of us had not eaten since our hearty breakfast. I went down and joined Andrew, Alan, John and Mel in the jacussi for a beer of course. Some time later Sunhil arranged for a few snacks from a local restaurant and we had that plus left overs from the party. More booze more talk and so to bed. Far too late for our 7 am alarm call to be away to the airport by 8:30.
Saturday 29th October
Saturday 29th Oct
Up and out within 5 minutes. Gulped down a bowl of fresh yoghurt, set me up for the day. Off in the first car to the Buddh Circuit arrive about 10 am. Creamed up, sprayed up, got food, 7 drinks tokens and settled down for the final practice. I stopped until the qualifying which finished at 3 pm then back knackered to KR. Much frantic activity getting ready for the 40 or so guests. We were even given keys to the wardrobes so the rooms looked tidier. A few of us had a swim in the cold ground floor pool. When Steve was going back upstairs there was a series of short power cuts trapping him in the lift. Felt much refreshed after a shower & power nap.
About 7 or so the guests started arriving. Earlier in the week Andrew went to a local restaurant and asked them to provide food and the staff to serve, they duly arrived and the kitchen was full of people scurrying around under Andrew's ever changing directions. As his friends we had been asked to help but Gupta and Sunil, two of Andrew's Indian aides de camp, were most put out if we tried. As ever over here the drinks last an hour, the starters even longer and the main course with you about 11 pm. I spoke to the guy who designed the 17 storey block of apartments, which is built in 3 wings.
It took years he said to "convince" the local authorities to allow him and his 3 partners to construct such a high block. Andrew's Indian advisors were also there.
And so to bed before the big race day tomorrow.
Up and out within 5 minutes. Gulped down a bowl of fresh yoghurt, set me up for the day. Off in the first car to the Buddh Circuit arrive about 10 am. Creamed up, sprayed up, got food, 7 drinks tokens and settled down for the final practice. I stopped until the qualifying which finished at 3 pm then back knackered to KR. Much frantic activity getting ready for the 40 or so guests. We were even given keys to the wardrobes so the rooms looked tidier. A few of us had a swim in the cold ground floor pool. When Steve was going back upstairs there was a series of short power cuts trapping him in the lift. Felt much refreshed after a shower & power nap.
About 7 or so the guests started arriving. Earlier in the week Andrew went to a local restaurant and asked them to provide food and the staff to serve, they duly arrived and the kitchen was full of people scurrying around under Andrew's ever changing directions. As his friends we had been asked to help but Gupta and Sunil, two of Andrew's Indian aides de camp, were most put out if we tried. As ever over here the drinks last an hour, the starters even longer and the main course with you about 11 pm. I spoke to the guy who designed the 17 storey block of apartments, which is built in 3 wings.
It took years he said to "convince" the local authorities to allow him and his 3 partners to construct such a high block. Andrew's Indian advisors were also there.
And so to bed before the big race day tomorrow.
Friday 28th Oct
Up at 6:30 and out by taxi by 7:10 to go to the hospital in Delhi. Five plus myself in all. Alan, Irina, Kate, Vid and Gill. The guys got through the gruelling medical test by about 1 pm. Total cost of the 7 checkups about £75. It would have cost 10 times as much in the UK.
We made the dash to the F1 track to see the last 40 minutes or so of the day's practice. Heavy security. No food or water allowed to be taken in. The litre bottles of water on sale inside cost 20 pence, so no ripoff there. Our grandstand seats are perfect, at the end of the fastest straight without obstruction by the fencing because of the height. Got some great photos.
Back to base & then out to a party at the Singhs' house, they run the taxi company Andrew has used since landing in Delhi. The twelve of us were greeted like long lost members of the family, I had met them all in 2005 on my last trip. Nibbles in the sitting room, then to the bar & cinema room in the basement, before being ferried off to the restaurant for endless starters then main course. The whole night was like a wedding celebration even to the point of group photos at the end. A remarkable evening. And so back & bed by about 1 am.
We made the dash to the F1 track to see the last 40 minutes or so of the day's practice. Heavy security. No food or water allowed to be taken in. The litre bottles of water on sale inside cost 20 pence, so no ripoff there. Our grandstand seats are perfect, at the end of the fastest straight without obstruction by the fencing because of the height. Got some great photos.
Back to base & then out to a party at the Singhs' house, they run the taxi company Andrew has used since landing in Delhi. The twelve of us were greeted like long lost members of the family, I had met them all in 2005 on my last trip. Nibbles in the sitting room, then to the bar & cinema room in the basement, before being ferried off to the restaurant for endless starters then main course. The whole night was like a wedding celebration even to the point of group photos at the end. A remarkable evening. And so back & bed by about 1 am.
Thursday 27th Oct
Up about 8 ish. Expecting to leave by taxi to Delhi about 9:30. Banana and snacks for breakfast. Steve & I tried cycling to the local that Andrew & I went to yesterday. The bike had a flat that turned out to be a leaking valve.
Alan Irena and I left for Delhi about 10:15 to meet Kapil at CP. I popped into a shop to buy some long trousers, as visit to the mosque with shorts on would be in doubt. We travelled by metro to see Father Ravi who runs a shelter for street children. He is an absolute saint putting all his time into helping the children and some adults. Seeing these very unfortunate children face to face rather than on the television is a very unnerving experience.
From there we went back on the metro which at times is very crowded to Chandni Chowk, to the market shops area, then on to the mosque. We all had an escorted trip up to the top of the minaret tower in the mosque and saw great views over New and Old Delhi. The two cycle rickshaw rides there and back under the maze of cables, over very uneven roads, and past every sort of trader from hot food street seller to a gold buyer.
We were certainly very glad to get back to CP about 4 pm for a late snack then a walk to the Imperial Hotel to meet with the others. But first to find a cash point. You cannot get Roupees in England before you travel and when you get here you can only get £130 a day. I would like to understand what the reason is for this policy.
A quick drink at the Imperial which is sheer opulence after the sore sights of earlier in the day, then back to base at Noida by about 8 pm. Some of us are up early to get to the hospital for medical screening by 8 am. So no food only water till after the tests.
Wednesday 26th Oct
Wednesday Devali 26th
Woke at 9 am. Alan and I put the two bikes from the UK together, so that should have made 4 in total. Only the Brit bikes work, both of Andrew's local bikes are broken - stripped threads. All the locals are staring at our bikes as Andrew and I pedal to the local ATM about 2 miles away. Lots of sights, like their waste management, are best not described. At a
local restaurant had a great snack, I however did not eat the partly cooked fried egg. Andrew choffed it down in the blink of an eye. It is so amusing to see Andrew ordering food with the locals, who are very helpful but hardly understand him. Then to the furniture shop- Andrew was going to buy 2 rough old tables for £23 each, the trader said they were new. I burn stuff like that. We eventually settled on some new plastic chairs and a table for the roof terrace. Then back to KR. About 14:00 the rest went off to the local golf club leaving me to baby sit KR and sort out and pay the delivery guys. Very taxing when you cannot speak or understand their lingo. The golf club they went to this afternoon must after been a grand place as Michael Schumacher was there.
A Devali night, fireworks all around KR. Then about 10 pm we all took it in turns to light a firework. The finale being a 2 metre jumping jack. This was not mentioned on the risk assessment. Old Delhi tomorrow. The adventure continues.
Woke at 9 am. Alan and I put the two bikes from the UK together, so that should have made 4 in total. Only the Brit bikes work, both of Andrew's local bikes are broken - stripped threads. All the locals are staring at our bikes as Andrew and I pedal to the local ATM about 2 miles away. Lots of sights, like their waste management, are best not described. At a
local restaurant had a great snack, I however did not eat the partly cooked fried egg. Andrew choffed it down in the blink of an eye. It is so amusing to see Andrew ordering food with the locals, who are very helpful but hardly understand him. Then to the furniture shop- Andrew was going to buy 2 rough old tables for £23 each, the trader said they were new. I burn stuff like that. We eventually settled on some new plastic chairs and a table for the roof terrace. Then back to KR. About 14:00 the rest went off to the local golf club leaving me to baby sit KR and sort out and pay the delivery guys. Very taxing when you cannot speak or understand their lingo. The golf club they went to this afternoon must after been a grand place as Michael Schumacher was there.
A Devali night, fireworks all around KR. Then about 10 pm we all took it in turns to light a firework. The finale being a 2 metre jumping jack. This was not mentioned on the risk assessment. Old Delhi tomorrow. The adventure continues.
Tuesday 25 th Oct
Arrived Delhi. An uneventful flight with Kingfisher Air lines, the only recommendation would be on price,-a bit of an old Airbus xxx. The guy next to me had to be kicked out into the middle rather than the aisle seat he wanted. I sat in the middle seat later when he took 20 minutes to use the loo. A bit of a performance collecting the bikes and getting the taxi. Unfortunatley Steve Bridges fell down a drain and cut his leg badly. Bob G took him to the Drs to be seen to at a total cost of one pound 20 pence.
The taxis into central New Delhi Connaught Square took 20 minutes and a lot of weaving between the traffic to find an ATM. Limit of about £130 a day at any ATM in India. Then off to the bar where the Force India F1 Team had been in recently. With taxes over £4 a bottle. A ripoff. Correction every transaction is a potential ripoff. Even the clerk in the Post Office was on the fiddle. Good news really; one, I am lucky enough to have the cash that they want and two,I recognised he was trying it on. It's all done with a smile. The curry we had at the Coffee House was great, a large selection of about 5 curries. We chose one which was very tasty, washed down with a few more beers.
Now time to get the stock of beer and water to take to the apartment in Greater Noida. Almost every shop sells just one sort of product. The liquor store sold the booze and the shop next door the water plus some curry brew that was in a cauldron in the corner. Still the water was in sealed bottles at 20p per litre. Haggling was met with little joy.
Then for the massive 75 minutes drive to Greater Noida, but for the large case of beer jammed at my feet it would have been a good time for a rest. Everyone else in the other 2 taxis later told me they had nodded off. We arrived in Noida and just kept going and going. At one stage I saw a sign 50 km to the F1 circuit. Greater Noida was still quite a way. Then King's Reserve rose out of the mist. We were on the 13th floor. The apartment is a 1/3rd of the top three floors. We ordered a take away indian (curry), 2 hours and a lot of hungry people later we dug in. Too much of course, allegedly we will eat it later in the week. Now what film do you watch for 12, in the cinema (Alan and Irina's room), yes Guns of Naverone. I was the second one to flag just as the guy slid down the cliff, no-one had the stamina to see the end. What a surprise. Then to bed.
The taxis into central New Delhi Connaught Square took 20 minutes and a lot of weaving between the traffic to find an ATM. Limit of about £130 a day at any ATM in India. Then off to the bar where the Force India F1 Team had been in recently. With taxes over £4 a bottle. A ripoff. Correction every transaction is a potential ripoff. Even the clerk in the Post Office was on the fiddle. Good news really; one, I am lucky enough to have the cash that they want and two,I recognised he was trying it on. It's all done with a smile. The curry we had at the Coffee House was great, a large selection of about 5 curries. We chose one which was very tasty, washed down with a few more beers.
Now time to get the stock of beer and water to take to the apartment in Greater Noida. Almost every shop sells just one sort of product. The liquor store sold the booze and the shop next door the water plus some curry brew that was in a cauldron in the corner. Still the water was in sealed bottles at 20p per litre. Haggling was met with little joy.
Then for the massive 75 minutes drive to Greater Noida, but for the large case of beer jammed at my feet it would have been a good time for a rest. Everyone else in the other 2 taxis later told me they had nodded off. We arrived in Noida and just kept going and going. At one stage I saw a sign 50 km to the F1 circuit. Greater Noida was still quite a way. Then King's Reserve rose out of the mist. We were on the 13th floor. The apartment is a 1/3rd of the top three floors. We ordered a take away indian (curry), 2 hours and a lot of hungry people later we dug in. Too much of course, allegedly we will eat it later in the week. Now what film do you watch for 12, in the cinema (Alan and Irina's room), yes Guns of Naverone. I was the second one to flag just as the guy slid down the cliff, no-one had the stamina to see the end. What a surprise. Then to bed.
Monday, 24 October 2011
Monday 24th
Got to heathrow finished building the box for the bike in the car park.
Amazing but I did not get stopped at security. Hand luggage is over sized but what the hell.
Now there are now 10 of us at the bar. What else do you expect.
Just off to get the drinks (whisky) for the week.
Love to all readers. I could not do this without
You.
Amazing but I did not get stopped at security. Hand luggage is over sized but what the hell.
Now there are now 10 of us at the bar. What else do you expect.
Just off to get the drinks (whisky) for the week.
Love to all readers. I could not do this without
You.
Sunday, 23 October 2011
Sunday 23rd Oct 2011
It's only 35 years to the day since Lesley & I got married. Tim Emma Matt Lesley & I went to the Bell to celebrate. A very pleasant lunch.
With Dunners help I managed to prise the bike in box into his car ready for the trip to Heathrow tomorrow.
Now the packing is to finish or should I say start.
I will see how I go with this blog without a web connection in Delhi and Nepal. If it will be a none starter then I will resort to paper.
With so many of us first going to Delhi then just myself to Napal it is going to be a fortnight of contrasts.
With Dunners help I managed to prise the bike in box into his car ready for the trip to Heathrow tomorrow.
Now the packing is to finish or should I say start.
I will see how I go with this blog without a web connection in Delhi and Nepal. If it will be a none starter then I will resort to paper.
With so many of us first going to Delhi then just myself to Napal it is going to be a fortnight of contrasts.
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