A very good night's sleep, zonked out at 11:30 wide awake at 5:30. I drank a litre of bottled water overnight. The room is very comfortable and airy. Nina was surprised I did not put the fan on as this stops being bitten by mosquitos. Daubed some insect repellant on before I went to sleep. No bites shown up yet. (11:35 am )
Nina's apartment is on the 3rd floor inside a secure residential section, a short way from Kashmir Gate metro station.
Sorted my hand luggage out.
Nina provided Darjeeling tea with a few blades of lemon grass in the pot, which was very nice. I have got some to take back for Matthew to make his speciality teas.
We drank the tea on the roof terrace, where there is a small shelter with chairs underneath. Loads of plants surround us.
By about 8:30 I had finished breakfast; as ever, more than you could possibly eat.
By 8:45 I was ready to go, so Nina's houseboy carried the heavy case back downstairs to load into the car for the short trip to the metro. Nina's houseboy stopped with me until I got a ticket and got through the first security check point of the day. At every metro station all passengers are searched and bags scanned. So for the first train of the day (3 more to go). The change at New Delhi metro station on to the airport line was well sign posted, and the train very similar to line 14 in Paris or Singapore metro. But this Indian train had a driver. For India the train was spotless with excellent announcements and updating displays to tell you where you are & which side to get off the train.
The airport is much like any other modern airport. Very spacious and clean.
Through security OK without the hassle of last time. You just follow any instructions given literally or make an attempt to. Just the wait now to board the plane. I have stocked up with water and food as by Indian time I will not see my bed at home until the early hours.
Flight left on time. I had a window seat row 33 sitting next to a very large asian guy who coughed, spluttered and sniffed for the 9 hrs 15 minutes flight. Apart from that small discomfort a very good flight.
The plane landed about 17:15 . Though all the check points without much delay. Got bag then a train to get me to the Heathrow Express. 15 minutes into central London tube from Paddington to Marylebone. Next train was 18:40 but the ticket I got from the clerk at Stourbridge Jnc. was not valid till 19:15. So I coughed up the excess and managed to get a seat. Lesley is picking me up from Snowhill about 8 pm. Not a bad transfer.
The Heathrow Express was a good fast train but very wobbly in comparison to the Delhi metro. What a change in cities and culture in the space of 10 hours. There is nothing quite like a smart city business-man. Their whole persona just exudes culture and confidence. In Delhi it is rare to see ladies on the train. In fact they have separate carriages.
The best things about the trip. (I am not going to list the negatives which can be just put down to experience and really do not amount to much anyway).
The best Value for Money:
A one litre bottle of water in Delhi. 20p.
The best eye opening moment in Nepal:
Seeing the rhino in Chitwan National Park coming towards me.
The most unexpected eye opening moment in India:
The sale of goats for sacrifice near the Red Fort in Old Delhi for Eid with the 2 goats in the motor rickshaw.
Most stylish place:
The privately owned Imperial Hotel in New Delhi. Every aspect of it is just awesome.
The best food:
The lamb rogan josh at he New Delhi Gymkhana Club.
The best service:
The New Delhi Gymkhana club bar AND restaurant
The best accommodation:
Andrew's apartment in Greater Noida.
The smoothest road:
The 5 km road built by the Japanese in Kathmandu going towards Bhaktapur.
The most touching moment and unexpected moment:
Andrew being incredibly sincere about wanting to share his time with his friends.
The most frenetic moment with a successful outcome:
All the car journeys to and from the F1 race track.
The best administration with no fuss:
The Yeti Travel Agent in Kathmandu. He even phoned our driver to confirm tour times.
The best Internet Connection:
Yes the free wi-fi at the Chitwan National Park Resort.
The most comfortable bed:
At the Home and Hospitality B&B in Old Delhi. Nina Kochhar told me it was an ex Oberon Hotel bed.
The best overall journey:
Kashmir Gate, Old Delhi, to Home.
2 car journeys
1 plane
6 trains
From 8:45 Delhi time to 21:15 UK time a total of 18 hours door to door.
The most efficient provision of a service:
The staff at the Chitwan National Park resort.
The best hospitality:
The Singh taxi company family, who took us all out for a meal in Noida.
The scariest but most successful moments:
Riding though the very dark gullies / back streets of Kathmandu on the back of a cycle rickshaw.
The best driver:
Sonam my driver for 4 days on the appalling Nepalese roads.
Monday, 7 November 2011
Sunday 6th November
Part 1 written as I fly south west towards Delhi,
Wow finally saw some mountains. Just before the seat belt sign went off up popped the snowy white peaks from behind the mist. It's just been un-seasonal weather, loads of other people I have spoken to have been disappointed also.
The day started with a melee at breakfast. Some Indian ladies decided to eat their breakfast outside, that was until the crows came. Once their backs were turned the birds swooped.
Met by the travel rep from Yeti Travel who gave me a feedback form to complete. Weather the only down side.
And so to the Monkey Temple and Durbar Square. I should have spent more time in the square rather than the Monkey Temple. Durbar Square is awesome. 43 Temples almost within spitting distance of each other. You need a week of reading and days of sightseeing to give it justice. And that is only one part of old Kathmandu. Off to the airport just before 12 noon. My guide did an excellent job pushing into the front of the entrance queue into the airport. The first of many. No queue at my JetLite check-in desk. And no query when my hold baggage weighed in at 23.8 kg. I managed to get my anorak in it which made it much heavier. Good job I ditched some stuff.
Then came baggage security,then immigration, then hand baggage security, each time your boarding card is stamped. Then on to the the most crowded departure hall (barn) you ever want to go in. All races and creeds travelling to all points some which I have never heard of. No direct fights to Europe though. I positioned myself as you do by one of the information screens. And relaxed. A little movement at the front prompted me to take a wander. There an official was shouting out the name of the Jetlite. I joined about 30 people to board the bus. And surprise surprise when I board the plane after yet another security check the plane is almost full. You just cannot take anything for granted here.
We are about an hour late so it will dusk when we land in Dehli.
This blog is being typed into Notes on my iPhone using a bluetooth keyboard bought for Lesley's iPad. (thanks for letting me borrow it Lesley).Then when I get wireless connection it is uploaded with a few key presses.
To be continued.
Landed at 17:33 in Delhi. Through immigration in a flash. They wanted to know the exact address I was going to in Dehli. Nina Kochhar's, Old Delhi, was not sufficient. He was happy with Delhli Gymkhana Club where I was going for dinner. My case was one of the first on the baggage carousel. So off to find the taxi driver. Unusually there are two places to meet incoming passengers, one inside the other outside the terminal, so I must have walked past the driver to start with. Another trudge to the car park then back into the Delhi traffic. I was the first to arrive at the Gymkhana Club, even though I knew Kapil was about to arrive. My bags had to be taken into the club only to be wheeled back out 2 minutes later, to be transferred to Nina's car later for the journey to her Old Delhi B & B.
The Gymkhana Club is a grand style colonial club, as I imagine they were. An extremely large ballroom with all the other facilities around the perimeter. By now all 4 of us, Nina, Vid (who had been in Calcutta with Andrew),Kapil and I had assembled together. Andrew, who was in Greater Noida and not able to join us,rang Kapil who then passed the phone to me for a chat. Nice touch that Andrew, thank you.
Into the bar about 7 pm for a drink of Kingfisher. Most Indians eat at 10 pm, as this fits in with the normal start of business hours of 10 am the next day. The formal meals always start with loads of booze, nibbles and snacks and snacks. A very risky combination if you forget that the main course is still a long way off. The unfinished snacks followed us in to the very grand restaurant. As I am writing this the next day, I think I had soup for starters, but the main course of dahl and rogan josh was amazing. Nina corrected me when I called the sauce, sauce, it's curry she said.
Nina is a very intelligent person, which on reflection all Anne and Andrew's friends are. She was very keen to hear about Vid's trip, and my family. She told us that it is the centenary of Queen Victoria's coronation in India. She also told us of the time she had been visiting Kathmandu and broke her leg during a scuffle to keep her handbag from being stolen. She said the treatment in the hospital there was remarkable, which she put down to the practice they have had sorting out the injured mountaineers. You do not want to stop in the hospital too long as you were, she said, guaranteed to get an infection. So her son travelled up from India to take her home. Kapil coerced me into my non-fill-chiltered whisky story and Nina understood the nuances in the tale.
So after an excellent meal, a transfer of bags to Nina's car and through at first clear roads. As we approached the Red Fort in Old Delhi we had to go through the goat market. As the next day Monday is the festival of Eid, where families eat a sacrificed goat with their families and neighbours, some last minute shoppers were there buying their goats. I saw one motor ricksaw with two people and two live goats in.
The Delhi traffic I have decided is perfect following an evening out. One driver's collision avoidance sense takes account of any straying of another driver' s attention. There is also not the violent acceleration and braking which we get in the UK traffic, just a gentle movement at junctions weaving in and out with an odd toot of the horn to let others know you are there.
Nina's apartment is on the top floor,
so she wakes up her house boy to carry my big case up the 30 or 40 steps. And so to bed. Knackered.
Wow finally saw some mountains. Just before the seat belt sign went off up popped the snowy white peaks from behind the mist. It's just been un-seasonal weather, loads of other people I have spoken to have been disappointed also.
The day started with a melee at breakfast. Some Indian ladies decided to eat their breakfast outside, that was until the crows came. Once their backs were turned the birds swooped.
Met by the travel rep from Yeti Travel who gave me a feedback form to complete. Weather the only down side.
And so to the Monkey Temple and Durbar Square. I should have spent more time in the square rather than the Monkey Temple. Durbar Square is awesome. 43 Temples almost within spitting distance of each other. You need a week of reading and days of sightseeing to give it justice. And that is only one part of old Kathmandu. Off to the airport just before 12 noon. My guide did an excellent job pushing into the front of the entrance queue into the airport. The first of many. No queue at my JetLite check-in desk. And no query when my hold baggage weighed in at 23.8 kg. I managed to get my anorak in it which made it much heavier. Good job I ditched some stuff.
Then came baggage security,then immigration, then hand baggage security, each time your boarding card is stamped. Then on to the the most crowded departure hall (barn) you ever want to go in. All races and creeds travelling to all points some which I have never heard of. No direct fights to Europe though. I positioned myself as you do by one of the information screens. And relaxed. A little movement at the front prompted me to take a wander. There an official was shouting out the name of the Jetlite. I joined about 30 people to board the bus. And surprise surprise when I board the plane after yet another security check the plane is almost full. You just cannot take anything for granted here.
We are about an hour late so it will dusk when we land in Dehli.
This blog is being typed into Notes on my iPhone using a bluetooth keyboard bought for Lesley's iPad. (thanks for letting me borrow it Lesley).Then when I get wireless connection it is uploaded with a few key presses.
To be continued.
Landed at 17:33 in Delhi. Through immigration in a flash. They wanted to know the exact address I was going to in Dehli. Nina Kochhar's, Old Delhi, was not sufficient. He was happy with Delhli Gymkhana Club where I was going for dinner. My case was one of the first on the baggage carousel. So off to find the taxi driver. Unusually there are two places to meet incoming passengers, one inside the other outside the terminal, so I must have walked past the driver to start with. Another trudge to the car park then back into the Delhi traffic. I was the first to arrive at the Gymkhana Club, even though I knew Kapil was about to arrive. My bags had to be taken into the club only to be wheeled back out 2 minutes later, to be transferred to Nina's car later for the journey to her Old Delhi B & B.
The Gymkhana Club is a grand style colonial club, as I imagine they were. An extremely large ballroom with all the other facilities around the perimeter. By now all 4 of us, Nina, Vid (who had been in Calcutta with Andrew),Kapil and I had assembled together. Andrew, who was in Greater Noida and not able to join us,rang Kapil who then passed the phone to me for a chat. Nice touch that Andrew, thank you.
Into the bar about 7 pm for a drink of Kingfisher. Most Indians eat at 10 pm, as this fits in with the normal start of business hours of 10 am the next day. The formal meals always start with loads of booze, nibbles and snacks and snacks. A very risky combination if you forget that the main course is still a long way off. The unfinished snacks followed us in to the very grand restaurant. As I am writing this the next day, I think I had soup for starters, but the main course of dahl and rogan josh was amazing. Nina corrected me when I called the sauce, sauce, it's curry she said.
Nina is a very intelligent person, which on reflection all Anne and Andrew's friends are. She was very keen to hear about Vid's trip, and my family. She told us that it is the centenary of Queen Victoria's coronation in India. She also told us of the time she had been visiting Kathmandu and broke her leg during a scuffle to keep her handbag from being stolen. She said the treatment in the hospital there was remarkable, which she put down to the practice they have had sorting out the injured mountaineers. You do not want to stop in the hospital too long as you were, she said, guaranteed to get an infection. So her son travelled up from India to take her home. Kapil coerced me into my non-fill-chiltered whisky story and Nina understood the nuances in the tale.
So after an excellent meal, a transfer of bags to Nina's car and through at first clear roads. As we approached the Red Fort in Old Delhi we had to go through the goat market. As the next day Monday is the festival of Eid, where families eat a sacrificed goat with their families and neighbours, some last minute shoppers were there buying their goats. I saw one motor ricksaw with two people and two live goats in.
The Delhi traffic I have decided is perfect following an evening out. One driver's collision avoidance sense takes account of any straying of another driver' s attention. There is also not the violent acceleration and braking which we get in the UK traffic, just a gentle movement at junctions weaving in and out with an odd toot of the horn to let others know you are there.
Nina's apartment is on the top floor,
so she wakes up her house boy to carry my big case up the 30 or 40 steps. And so to bed. Knackered.
Saturday, 5 November 2011
Saturday 5th November
A long drive today, yes even for me as a passenge, being rocked back and forth for 5 hours from 7:30 along the 168 km road back to Kathmandu. The hills got steeper the closer we got to Kathmandu. I have had enough traffic fumes to last me to the end of the year. Loads of broken down trucks along the road, one with brake failure that had just rolled back into the ditch and was half blocking the road. One lorry on its side having left the road but not quite making it into the river. The site of two recent land slips, fortunately on the off side away from the river, so they would have blocked the road in recent days. Into the hotel room by about 1 pm. Started to sort out all the junk and reduce the hold luggage to below 20 kg.
Off on another tour with a new guide Kacer to Bhatapur. What a remarkable place it is. It reminds me of a land Venice. So much history that I did not give it 1% justice in the 90 minutes I was there. Not helped by stair rodding rain, and where had I left my water proof jacket, yes at the hotel. Even the guide had to buy an umbrella. All the locals say this is most unseasonal weather, but they would say that wouldn't they. I would think the centre of Bhatapur is the most densely populated place for antiquities of anywhere I have been. What's more, even though the 21st century amenities are there, the place still looks medieval . Which it is. I'll get the facts wrong if & try & repeat the information the guide gave me. If you do go there just do more reading up than I did.
Said good bye to my driver Sonam, who has been my guide through the amazing Nepalese countryside. Most people live in villages rather than towns, but they all seem to have pre-paid mobile phones. The late rain will play havoc with the rice crops which were drying in the fields.
Jumped into a hot bath of green water to remove the chill of being soaked to the skin.
Buffet tea in the restaurant, good value until the 25% taxes are added on.
Set up the taxi collection from Delhi airport with Deshbir so I can meet Nina Kochhar at the Delhi Gymkhana Club (Safdarjang Road, near Teen Murti House), where we will have dinner before going to her B & B. Vid and Kapil may join us also.
Now to sort out the junk in my room and pack. I gave Sonam a load of stuff including the mosquito net. This should allow me to be close to the 20 kg baggage limit.
Goodnight.
Off on another tour with a new guide Kacer to Bhatapur. What a remarkable place it is. It reminds me of a land Venice. So much history that I did not give it 1% justice in the 90 minutes I was there. Not helped by stair rodding rain, and where had I left my water proof jacket, yes at the hotel. Even the guide had to buy an umbrella. All the locals say this is most unseasonal weather, but they would say that wouldn't they. I would think the centre of Bhatapur is the most densely populated place for antiquities of anywhere I have been. What's more, even though the 21st century amenities are there, the place still looks medieval . Which it is. I'll get the facts wrong if & try & repeat the information the guide gave me. If you do go there just do more reading up than I did.
Said good bye to my driver Sonam, who has been my guide through the amazing Nepalese countryside. Most people live in villages rather than towns, but they all seem to have pre-paid mobile phones. The late rain will play havoc with the rice crops which were drying in the fields.
Jumped into a hot bath of green water to remove the chill of being soaked to the skin.
Buffet tea in the restaurant, good value until the 25% taxes are added on.
Set up the taxi collection from Delhi airport with Deshbir so I can meet Nina Kochhar at the Delhi Gymkhana Club (Safdarjang Road, near Teen Murti House), where we will have dinner before going to her B & B. Vid and Kapil may join us also.
Now to sort out the junk in my room and pack. I gave Sonam a load of stuff including the mosquito net. This should allow me to be close to the 20 kg baggage limit.
Goodnight.
Friday, 4 November 2011
Friday 4th November
A warm night last night. I feel rested so I must have slept. A tap at my door at 6 am, cup of tea at 6:20 then elephant safari into the forest at 6:30. Three of us on the beast in a chair with the "driver" sitting with his legs either side of the elephants ears. Off we go into the very damp and misty day. Down a very steep bank of at least 45 degrees. A slow rocking quite relaxing journey. Quite quickly and within 300 metres of the lodge we see a rhino and what do we do but walk towards it to get some good photos. We trudge round the 18 inch wide elephant tracks, all the time it reaches out with its trunk and eats and eats and eats. Grass, shrubs and trees just get gobbled up at the rate of 150 kg a day we are told later. At one point our path is blocked by a small tree. At the driver's command our path is made clear, the elephant just breaks down the 5metre high tree and off we go again. We spot another rhino this one much smaller 6 to 7 years old. Yes and we walk towards it to about 30 metres. The elephant is turned round so we can each get good photos. There are lots of birds and very weird sounds. The only other animals we see on the 135 minute trek are a pair of deer. Then the bare footed driver just gets off the elephant to go to the loo 50 yards behind us. He shows us tiger tracks, they have seen the tigers 3 times here in the last year during the elephant safaris. No such sighting today I am pleased to say. Then its our time to drive the elephant. He moves to the back & I sit astride its head just behind its ears. The driver gets off and gives verbal commands from behind. The skin is so warm to the touch and very bristly with short black hairs. You feel in a very safe and commanding position. Swapping drivers is however a little tricky.
And so to breakfast and on to an elephant teach-in at 10 am. We walk to where the same elephant is tethered by a rope hoop to its back right leg. We follow it to a circle of wooden benches 400 metres away down a steep hill through a pond in a stream up the other side. The guide tells us a few facts, then each of the 5 of us get the chance to hand feed a large capsule of elephant grass about 8 inches long and as thick as my ankle. We observe, and then are able to climb on to its head by putting our right foot about waist high onto its trunk and yanking yourself up using its ears to hold on to. Dead easy. Then they needed a volunteer to go up on its head again for the ride back to its stables, yes it was me again. I did hang on for dear life down the steep bank. As we went through the water 100's of tiny frogs jumped out of the way. A little tricky getting off but the command was given for it too kneel, then I could just slid down to the ground. Much more comfortable than riding in the chair.
And so to the afternoon session walking in the forest looking for rhino on foot with the guide, who informed us that his large bamboo stick shoved in the rhino's sensitive mouth would deter it from hurting us. The rest of it is built like a horned tank. The risk assessment was if one of them charged at us run in a zigzag line to the nearest big tree. As fast as you can (bearing in mind its top speed is 45 kph and it weights 3 tons). Yes we did see a rhino 50 yards away. It would prefer to come towards us away from the two elephants with some Germans on. There was a large pond between us & the rhino. The animal paused momentarily during its jogging through the water towards us. Time for a quick photo and I was off. Seeing one rhino in the wild was enough for me but the guide continued to look. Only a small deer was seen, plus leeches that somehow stuck to the stomach of the girl in our group of three. Fortunately I did not pick any up. The girl was a little perturbed when bleeding started after the small 15 mm x 2 mm leech was removed.
On return to the lodge I called Lesley to say she could now reduce my life insurance. Dark by about 6, still warm. A shower was called for and hey-presto the water was warm. The jungle/elephant clothes have gone into quarantine to be sorted out at home.
Our guide gave a slide show on the wild life of the national park. Very interesting. My stay at the Machan Paradise, Chitwan National Park, has been very enjoyable. All the staff are most friendly and very very keen to help you. A good last night chatting to other guests.
And so to breakfast and on to an elephant teach-in at 10 am. We walk to where the same elephant is tethered by a rope hoop to its back right leg. We follow it to a circle of wooden benches 400 metres away down a steep hill through a pond in a stream up the other side. The guide tells us a few facts, then each of the 5 of us get the chance to hand feed a large capsule of elephant grass about 8 inches long and as thick as my ankle. We observe, and then are able to climb on to its head by putting our right foot about waist high onto its trunk and yanking yourself up using its ears to hold on to. Dead easy. Then they needed a volunteer to go up on its head again for the ride back to its stables, yes it was me again. I did hang on for dear life down the steep bank. As we went through the water 100's of tiny frogs jumped out of the way. A little tricky getting off but the command was given for it too kneel, then I could just slid down to the ground. Much more comfortable than riding in the chair.
And so to the afternoon session walking in the forest looking for rhino on foot with the guide, who informed us that his large bamboo stick shoved in the rhino's sensitive mouth would deter it from hurting us. The rest of it is built like a horned tank. The risk assessment was if one of them charged at us run in a zigzag line to the nearest big tree. As fast as you can (bearing in mind its top speed is 45 kph and it weights 3 tons). Yes we did see a rhino 50 yards away. It would prefer to come towards us away from the two elephants with some Germans on. There was a large pond between us & the rhino. The animal paused momentarily during its jogging through the water towards us. Time for a quick photo and I was off. Seeing one rhino in the wild was enough for me but the guide continued to look. Only a small deer was seen, plus leeches that somehow stuck to the stomach of the girl in our group of three. Fortunately I did not pick any up. The girl was a little perturbed when bleeding started after the small 15 mm x 2 mm leech was removed.
On return to the lodge I called Lesley to say she could now reduce my life insurance. Dark by about 6, still warm. A shower was called for and hey-presto the water was warm. The jungle/elephant clothes have gone into quarantine to be sorted out at home.
Our guide gave a slide show on the wild life of the national park. Very interesting. My stay at the Machan Paradise, Chitwan National Park, has been very enjoyable. All the staff are most friendly and very very keen to help you. A good last night chatting to other guests.
Thursday, 3 November 2011
Thursday 3 rd November
Misty again in Pokhara. Even a couple from Kathmandu I met last night were convinced that it would be fine this morning. An Ozzie I met later in the day who had been in Pokhara two days before me said the mountains were crystal clear,
Left in heavy rain for the 150 km drive to Chitwan national park. The driver Sonam knew a route to miss part of the first 5 km of busy road. Retraced the road back to Kathmandu then turned south. Very bumpy roads in places. One accident black spot we passed was where a government minister had been killed when his car went off the road into the river, the driver survived but was jailed for 4 years, released, then murdered by the Maoists. Loads of other spots have had fatal accidents. The latest only last week when two young guys on a motor bike were killed.
The last 20 km or so was along wide rock roads. The four wheel drive Ford "Everest" car copes very well. We stopped a few times for me to take some pictures. There are just too many sights to record in film. A group of 30 or so women were cutting the rice down in a field at the side of the road. The thing I shall always remember is the sound of the scythes slicking through the rice stems, then we stopped to see a trio of guys beating the corn stems by hand on to a wooden table. They were ankle deep in corn surrounded by a waist high stack of hay.
Arrived at the Machan Lodge about 12:45. A brief but efficent description of events, all directed from a large chalk board outside the refectory . They have me listed as Mr Richard (please note).
The weather here is warm to hot and dry. Loads of insects about the place so I sprayed up. Not for the first time I think. The staff are most attentive almost hovering to see if you want more food or another drink.
A group of 6 of us left at 14:30 for Land Rover Safari and river trip. Neither of them for the faint hearted. I never knew how very good Land Rovers are over rough ground. You can keep 20 mph up unless it is very rocky. The 6 of us found the most comfortable way to travel is standing up holding on to the transverse bar where the canvas behind the cab would normally be.
Our guide is very keen for me to get good photos and gives me loads of tips. He also allows us to photograph alligators through an open door to get a better shot of the metre long reptiles.. (there was a barrier a waist height).
And so to the river canoe trip. A slowish flowing river with the occasional rapid. We started just below where we had seen a crocodile 2 hours before. Eight of us in the "canoe" made from planks of wood nailed/stapled together. Water lapping 4 or 5 inches below the gunwale. At least the nails holding the seat backs up looked new. As dusk was creeping in the photos of the birds we saw were very poor. The guide advised me to change the white balance on my camera. Never done that before. We all made it back to shore just with wet shoes from the leaking boat. Back to the lodge then met at 6:45 for a demonstration of Napalese dancing. This is very similar to the English Morris dancing but much more musical with drum and rattles. We all had a go with them as an encore.
The accommodation is basic but clean. The staff say there are no mozzies, however I have put my net up, just to say I have used it. It is due to go down to 14 degrees C tonight so no AC thank goodness. The wi-fi is free here and works well with Skype on my iphone. Due to be woken at 6 am for the elephant safari. I must remember to tuck my long trousers into my socks to save the leeches crawling up my leg as happened to one lady this morning.
And so to bed.
Left in heavy rain for the 150 km drive to Chitwan national park. The driver Sonam knew a route to miss part of the first 5 km of busy road. Retraced the road back to Kathmandu then turned south. Very bumpy roads in places. One accident black spot we passed was where a government minister had been killed when his car went off the road into the river, the driver survived but was jailed for 4 years, released, then murdered by the Maoists. Loads of other spots have had fatal accidents. The latest only last week when two young guys on a motor bike were killed.
The last 20 km or so was along wide rock roads. The four wheel drive Ford "Everest" car copes very well. We stopped a few times for me to take some pictures. There are just too many sights to record in film. A group of 30 or so women were cutting the rice down in a field at the side of the road. The thing I shall always remember is the sound of the scythes slicking through the rice stems, then we stopped to see a trio of guys beating the corn stems by hand on to a wooden table. They were ankle deep in corn surrounded by a waist high stack of hay.
Arrived at the Machan Lodge about 12:45. A brief but efficent description of events, all directed from a large chalk board outside the refectory . They have me listed as Mr Richard (please note).
The weather here is warm to hot and dry. Loads of insects about the place so I sprayed up. Not for the first time I think. The staff are most attentive almost hovering to see if you want more food or another drink.
A group of 6 of us left at 14:30 for Land Rover Safari and river trip. Neither of them for the faint hearted. I never knew how very good Land Rovers are over rough ground. You can keep 20 mph up unless it is very rocky. The 6 of us found the most comfortable way to travel is standing up holding on to the transverse bar where the canvas behind the cab would normally be.
Our guide is very keen for me to get good photos and gives me loads of tips. He also allows us to photograph alligators through an open door to get a better shot of the metre long reptiles.. (there was a barrier a waist height).
And so to the river canoe trip. A slowish flowing river with the occasional rapid. We started just below where we had seen a crocodile 2 hours before. Eight of us in the "canoe" made from planks of wood nailed/stapled together. Water lapping 4 or 5 inches below the gunwale. At least the nails holding the seat backs up looked new. As dusk was creeping in the photos of the birds we saw were very poor. The guide advised me to change the white balance on my camera. Never done that before. We all made it back to shore just with wet shoes from the leaking boat. Back to the lodge then met at 6:45 for a demonstration of Napalese dancing. This is very similar to the English Morris dancing but much more musical with drum and rattles. We all had a go with them as an encore.
The accommodation is basic but clean. The staff say there are no mozzies, however I have put my net up, just to say I have used it. It is due to go down to 14 degrees C tonight so no AC thank goodness. The wi-fi is free here and works well with Skype on my iphone. Due to be woken at 6 am for the elephant safari. I must remember to tuck my long trousers into my socks to save the leeches crawling up my leg as happened to one lady this morning.
And so to bed.
Wednesday, 2 November 2011
Wednesday 2nd Nov
My most ethnic day so far. Taken by taxi and guide for 35 minutes to see the "sunrise" at 6:15 over the Annapurna Range. Very misty but still a great experience. There were hundreds of people up there at Sarangkot. We were early enough to get a good seat at the front of a balcony overlooking the local country-side. There has been misty weather for 6 days now, but you still get a feeling of what the view would be like.
Back to the hotel quick breakfast then off on the city tour at 9 pm, to the Tibetan refugee camp where I met a lady of 55 who had been a refugee for 52 years. Kicked out by the Chinese. She still has a brother alive in China. Then to the Hindu Temple, Devil's Falls, Hydro Electric Gardens, a very large steel rope bridge beside the British Gurkha Army Camp. Only the temple was non touristy. Then off on the large lake with an island temple on it, where if it is clear weather you can see the mountains. It was noticeable that only the Japanese were offered life jackets. The rest of us, including my guide Sebar who could not swim, were just pushed off from the side for the half a mile paddle by a lady in the back. Good photos though. A little shopping then back to the hotel for 12:25.
My next trip started at 3 pm so a little shut eye was called for. Waited till 14:45 to ring Lesley where is was 9 am. She informed me that Matthew had made a short-cut on the ipad to enable Lesley to proof read & correct this blog. Good idea that.
Set off about 15:10 for the trip for the early evening trek on to a local trekking trail. At the very least 40 minutes drive up rough but mostly sealed roads to the village where Sebar lives. The village school children were just walking home. No school run here. Some of them are up to an hour away from home. When my dad lived in yorkshire he had to walk miles to school. I decided not to witness the killing and plucking of the chickens that were laid semi lifeless on the pavement outside the chicken shop. Then another 20 minute walk past loads of children to whom I was a great novelty. So into Sebar's farm and house, past the two water buffalo, cow, dog, to find a very comfortable cat sitting on the very chair I was offered to sit on. I chose the one next to it. Sebar has a lovely 26 month old daughter, plus his wife who is due to give birth any week now. Unless there are difficulties she will have the baby at home. They live In the two rooms plus kitchen with Sebar's parents. In the summer the veranda and outside stove area are used as living accommodation. .
Then another 30 minutes walk up to the trekking trail. The trekkers carry their whole kit and just camp on flat ground by the side of villages. You are never very far away from anyone here. Dusk was upon us so into the taxi that had followed us via the road. We dropped Sebar off in what seemed like nowhere, and went quickly down the dark road into Pokhara, very polluted with evening traffic and fires the locals use for cooking. On the way back to the hotel I stopped off at the lake-side shops which I had seen earlier in the day. The taxi driver waited while I did some shopping then back to base by a very dark 6:40. Shower, booze, food, then bed & ready to leave at 8:30 tomorrow to go to the Chitwan National Park..
Back to the hotel quick breakfast then off on the city tour at 9 pm, to the Tibetan refugee camp where I met a lady of 55 who had been a refugee for 52 years. Kicked out by the Chinese. She still has a brother alive in China. Then to the Hindu Temple, Devil's Falls, Hydro Electric Gardens, a very large steel rope bridge beside the British Gurkha Army Camp. Only the temple was non touristy. Then off on the large lake with an island temple on it, where if it is clear weather you can see the mountains. It was noticeable that only the Japanese were offered life jackets. The rest of us, including my guide Sebar who could not swim, were just pushed off from the side for the half a mile paddle by a lady in the back. Good photos though. A little shopping then back to the hotel for 12:25.
My next trip started at 3 pm so a little shut eye was called for. Waited till 14:45 to ring Lesley where is was 9 am. She informed me that Matthew had made a short-cut on the ipad to enable Lesley to proof read & correct this blog. Good idea that.
Set off about 15:10 for the trip for the early evening trek on to a local trekking trail. At the very least 40 minutes drive up rough but mostly sealed roads to the village where Sebar lives. The village school children were just walking home. No school run here. Some of them are up to an hour away from home. When my dad lived in yorkshire he had to walk miles to school. I decided not to witness the killing and plucking of the chickens that were laid semi lifeless on the pavement outside the chicken shop. Then another 20 minute walk past loads of children to whom I was a great novelty. So into Sebar's farm and house, past the two water buffalo, cow, dog, to find a very comfortable cat sitting on the very chair I was offered to sit on. I chose the one next to it. Sebar has a lovely 26 month old daughter, plus his wife who is due to give birth any week now. Unless there are difficulties she will have the baby at home. They live In the two rooms plus kitchen with Sebar's parents. In the summer the veranda and outside stove area are used as living accommodation. .
Then another 30 minutes walk up to the trekking trail. The trekkers carry their whole kit and just camp on flat ground by the side of villages. You are never very far away from anyone here. Dusk was upon us so into the taxi that had followed us via the road. We dropped Sebar off in what seemed like nowhere, and went quickly down the dark road into Pokhara, very polluted with evening traffic and fires the locals use for cooking. On the way back to the hotel I stopped off at the lake-side shops which I had seen earlier in the day. The taxi driver waited while I did some shopping then back to base by a very dark 6:40. Shower, booze, food, then bed & ready to leave at 8:30 tomorrow to go to the Chitwan National Park..
Tuesday, 1 November 2011
Tuesday 1st November
Up about 6 updated the blog until about 7 and down to breakfast. Just a little yoghurt, cereal and toast. Back to the room to finish packing, then dropped the large red case off at the concierge ready to to pick up on Saturday. The breakfast bar was very good - a selection of everything including bacon and you could order an omelette if you wanted. The staff are all very friendly being efficient without the Indian officious. Met the driver Sonam at 9 am, the local rep was there to give me my hotel vouchers for the next 4 nights.
Then we started the 199 km journey to Pokhara. You are very quickly into pretty countryside, rolling green sided hills. After 30 minutes we had to stop for half an hour as a land slip had closed the road. If people get frustrated I did not see any sign. They just get on with it. Sonam lives in a village that is only just getting electricity and it takes him two days to get home from Kathmandu. There are no roads to his village. One of his friends who is also a Sherpa has climbed Everest 5 times but died 10 years ago because he fell down a hole in the village after a drinking session and he was not found till the next day as there was no lighting.
Half the road to Pokhara was built by Indian engineers the other
part by Chinese. The first part of the Chinese road was good but the last part into Pokhara was dreadful. We surprisingly only passed one accident, an over-turned lorry. The horn and use of the indicators are very confusing. When the driver in front knows you are behind, he indicates right to say you can overtake. The horn is just a signal to say "i am here".
The driving has to be seen to be believed. No one with a weak nerve or constitution would survive. The buses are rammed full with eyes peering out. Every other bus has passengers on top. The rice crop is just being harvested (by hand). The country is a succession of villages. Sonam says one's friends are limited to no more than 10 as the other villages would be too far to walk to. They have to live on fresh food as that is all there is. A very fertile landscape with lots of different greens of the rice crop. Women cut the rice and beat the grains of rice off on to a large mat in the field. Stacks of rice hay are used to save for the monsoon season to boil the kettle. The rivers we do pass are below their peak as the monsoon finished in August and was particularly wet this year. Hence the good rice crop. The driver is in his late 50's and speaks very good English. I have to stop myself talking about more than one topic at a time as he does not follow. Spots of rain as we near Pokhara then very heavy rain and a litte thunder. The guide says with great confidence that the dawn tour I have booked will be fine because that is what is forcast. We shall see at 5:15 tomorrow. The hotel is ok, the room not quite as good as last night. Had the buffet, very good but the cabbage tastes of the water it was cooked in. All the staff here were born with a smile on their faces and speak very good English, One word namaste is a universal greeting at any time of the day (for we tourists anyway). You also put your hands together and bow your head slightly. A beautiful way to pause for a moment as you greet people. Watch out when I next greet you.
Then we started the 199 km journey to Pokhara. You are very quickly into pretty countryside, rolling green sided hills. After 30 minutes we had to stop for half an hour as a land slip had closed the road. If people get frustrated I did not see any sign. They just get on with it. Sonam lives in a village that is only just getting electricity and it takes him two days to get home from Kathmandu. There are no roads to his village. One of his friends who is also a Sherpa has climbed Everest 5 times but died 10 years ago because he fell down a hole in the village after a drinking session and he was not found till the next day as there was no lighting.
Half the road to Pokhara was built by Indian engineers the other
part by Chinese. The first part of the Chinese road was good but the last part into Pokhara was dreadful. We surprisingly only passed one accident, an over-turned lorry. The horn and use of the indicators are very confusing. When the driver in front knows you are behind, he indicates right to say you can overtake. The horn is just a signal to say "i am here".
The driving has to be seen to be believed. No one with a weak nerve or constitution would survive. The buses are rammed full with eyes peering out. Every other bus has passengers on top. The rice crop is just being harvested (by hand). The country is a succession of villages. Sonam says one's friends are limited to no more than 10 as the other villages would be too far to walk to. They have to live on fresh food as that is all there is. A very fertile landscape with lots of different greens of the rice crop. Women cut the rice and beat the grains of rice off on to a large mat in the field. Stacks of rice hay are used to save for the monsoon season to boil the kettle. The rivers we do pass are below their peak as the monsoon finished in August and was particularly wet this year. Hence the good rice crop. The driver is in his late 50's and speaks very good English. I have to stop myself talking about more than one topic at a time as he does not follow. Spots of rain as we near Pokhara then very heavy rain and a litte thunder. The guide says with great confidence that the dawn tour I have booked will be fine because that is what is forcast. We shall see at 5:15 tomorrow. The hotel is ok, the room not quite as good as last night. Had the buffet, very good but the cabbage tastes of the water it was cooked in. All the staff here were born with a smile on their faces and speak very good English, One word namaste is a universal greeting at any time of the day (for we tourists anyway). You also put your hands together and bow your head slightly. A beautiful way to pause for a moment as you greet people. Watch out when I next greet you.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)